‘Wollcott’ muted blue wool twill suiting fabric

We never cease to be amazed at the quality of the wool suiting that we receive from Italy. This muted blue wool twill suiting fabric is an absolute classic of its kind; it’s another alternative colourway to our popular ‘Miller’ classic camel wool twill suiting fabric. The shade of blue here is a soft, slightly greyed one. It has depth – but stops just short of being a navy blue – while it’s nowhere near as bold as a royal blue.

What kind of fabric is this?

Our muted blue wool twill suiting fabric is primarily a wool fabric with a small amount of cotton. Not what we were expecting! However as we handled it, we began to understand the role of the cotton content; it brings structure and weight to this fabric, giving it even more versatility. The characteristic diagonal weave of a twill is very much in evidence; fine and close. We’d describe it as a medium-weight suiting – or a lighter-weight coat fabric.

What does this fabric feel like?

Our muted blue wool twill suiting fabric has a smooth and refined handle, with a lovely finish. The twill weave is evident to your fingertips, but it’s not in any way rough; we think it will be perfectly comfortable next to the skin as a dress or trousers if those are your choices.

How does this fabric move?

Twill fabrics usually drape well and our despite the cotton content, this muted blue wool twill fabric is no exception, although it has more structure and less fluidity than would otherwise be the case. You can see how it falls into angled folds in this video.

NOTE: Our videos are intended to show the movement of a fabric. For accurate colour and pattern detail, please refer to our still images.

Will I need to line this fabric?

You won’t need to line a tunic or unfitted dress as this is a fabric with excellent opacity for its weight. However a skirt or dress may need a lining or a half-slip to enable movement against the body, especially over hosiery. You might also need to line it for added structure if you were making a garment such as a fitted bodice for a dress. A jacket would require a lining for ease of taking off and on although an unlined casual jacket or trench coat would be options provided the seams were well-finished.

What can I make with this fabric?

This is a fabulous fabric for crossing seasons with. Tailoring, dresses and separates are all options. Wide-legged trousers are very much our go-to garment for this weight of fabric – however a less-structured cross-season trench coat would be a wardrobe staple for years to come. We like the ‘Chilton’ Trench Coat from Cashmerette – although we might be tempted to add a few inches to the hemline to make the most of the movement potential of this lovely fabric.

Fabric width

152cm

Fabric composition

76% wool, 24% cotton

Fabric preparation

Steam gently before cutting, holding a steam iron 1 inch away from the wrong side of the fabric, working down the length. Use a steam iron and a pressing cloth to press areas of the garment during construction where necessary.

Fabric care

We recommend spot- and dry-cleaning wool-rich garments, particularly if they’re lined. Find out more on our About our fabric pages