We couldn’t resist our latest Italian arrival for the colder winter months. This softer-than-soft black wool coating fabric sits somewhere between a mouflon and a melton we think. It has the dense opacity of a fabulous-quality melton – but with a delightfully-luxurious nap on the right side that lends it the softness of a mouflon fabric.
What kind of fabric is this?
We’d describe our black wool coating fabric as sitting towards the heavier-weight end of the medium-weight coating bracket. It’s a densely woven 70% wool fabric with cashmere and polyester lending it some additional softness and durability. Although we’ve described it as a coating, it could also be used for warm winter jackets and skirts too, although we think it’s rather too thick for trousers.
What does this fabric feel like?
This is a fabric with an beautifully soft handle. It’ll be comforting and gentle next to the skin as a coat collar. It’s also very pliable and well-behaved – not at all stiff to wear. The ‘right’ side has a softly-brushed nap, adding to the comfort and warmth of this fabric. That nap runs down the length of the fabric so you’ll need to pay attention when you’re laying out your pattern pieces for cutting.
How does this fabric move?
Our black wool coating fabric has a soft drape. As a fabric of this weight it’s clearly not a fluid fabric but it has an elegant and rounded movement; a metre or two drapes beautifully although pleats would hold a little shape. You can see how it moves and drapes in this video.
Will I need to line this fabric?
You’ll probably want to line this fabric in order to provide additional structure as well as to enable it to move across the body and over clothing layers. We have some stunning jacquard linings due shortly – as they arrive you’ll be able to find them here.
What can I make with this fabric?
We think this luxurious black wool coating fabric is a serious contender if you’re set to update your winter coat this year. There are lots of patterns to choose from but the ‘Bamboo’ Coat from Waffle Patterns is a classic tailored design that won’t date.
70% wool, 20% polyester, 10% cashmere
We recommend spot- and dry-cleaning wool garments, particularly if they’re lined. Find out more on our About our fabric pages